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Охотничьи ножи. Алексей Блюм.

Мы привыкли к тому, что образ охотника ассоциируется, прежде всего, с ружьем, и действительно, ружье - это наиболее зримая часть его снаряжения. Однако есть немало видов охот, где оно играет далеко не первостепенную роль и даже не нужно вовсе, чего нельзя сказать о ноже, который нужен охотнику практически всегда. У ножа на охоте есть две основные функции: использование его для бытовых нужд и непосредственно для обеспечения процесса охоты и обработки добычи. Давайте остановимся на второй, потому что бытовые (даже на охоте) обязанности ножа понятны всем, охотничьи же, хотя тоже вполне определены, но их качественное исполнение зависит от многих характеристик, которые стоит обсудить. Тем более что среди наших авторов и, конечно, читателей достаточно людей, хорошо знающих этот необходимый охотнику предмет. Я хочу высказать свое мнение о ножах охотника; оно может быть спорным, но это мой опыт, который, возможно будет кому-то полезен и интересен. Разными ножами мне приходилось снимать шкуры и разделывать туши десятков лосей, кабанов, сайгаков, косуль, нескольких туров, более десяти медведей (в том числе для чучел) и других крупных зверей. А также снимать шкурки с пушных зверей: бобров, выдр, лисиц, волков, сурков, куниц, соболей и пр. Поэтому все, о чем я буду писать ниже, основано на собственном опыте.

Года два тому назад тема охотничьего ножа часто присутствовала на страницах "РОГ", проводились конкурсы, предлагалось даже обсудить "концепцию русского охотничьего ножа". Я довольно внимательно следил за этими публикациями и, к сожалению, нигде не заметил, чтобы разбирались или обсуждались рабочие качества ножей. Как-то раз появился намек на такое обсуждение, но сразу же в одной из следующих публикаций, посвященных этой теме, обозначился упрек, что автор (или авторы) пытаются заострить внимание на скиннерских качествах ножа. Однако тогда, прежде чем затевать дискуссию, нужно определиться, какие функции мы числим за охотничьим ножом.

Сначала несколько слов о "концепции русского охотничьего ножа". Честно скажу, я не очень ясно понимаю смысл этого красивого выражения. Если это касается формы, то я убежден, что мы в России сейчас вряд ли можем сказать что-то новое. Не нужно забывать, что на протяжении последних 80 лет у нас не было производства охотничьих ножей вообще. Нельзя же всерьез принимать появившиеся в шестидесятые годы в продаже два ножа - один за 7 руб. 50 коп, а другой на рубль дешевле. Правда, справедливости ради, нужно сказать, что совсем малопригодным для охотничьих целей был первый, второй имел более рациональную форму, им можно было работать, но материал и качество исполнения тоже были на низком уровне. Европа же и США не стояли на месте, и производство ножей, в том числе и охотничьих, там было поставлено очень широко, это видно даже по тому ассортименту, который представлен сейчас в наших магазинах. Так что, мне кажется, какую бы форму ни придумал наш домашний дизайнер, все равно она уже известна, и истинно русской формы сейчас быть просто не может. Другое дело - материал рукоятки или ножен. Возможности использования различной древесины у нас неограниченны. Посмотрите на иностранные ножи, их рукоятки в основном пластик, редко кость, рог или дерево. У нас же капы, "щетки", карельская береза, береста и др. - теплые, гигиеничные, красивые. Поэтому, на мой взгляд, концепцию русского охотничьего ножа нужно реализовать в материале и форме рукояток и жен.

Помнится, в семидесятых годах два месяца мне пришлось прожить в эвенкийской тайге с местным охотником Алексеем Суздалелевым. У меня с собой было три ножа, один из них - классический финский нож, доставшийся мне через отца от деда, который купил его в 1904 году, отправляясь на русско-японскую войну. Нож был в своих "родных" кожаных ножнах. Увидев его у меня, Алексей предложил сделать для него ножны из бересты, как делают эвенки для своих ножей. Я согласился, и он в течение двух часов сделал прекрасные ножны, даже украсил их незамысловатым орнаментом. Есть они у меня и сейчас и, честное слово, ничем не уступают кожаным финским. Я привел этот пример к тому, что возможности красивого и своеобразного оформления охотничьих ножей у нас, безусловно, есть, нужно только подумать об этом.

Для себя я делю охотничьи ножи на следующие четыре категории:

1. Нож охотника, который не часто, но выезжает на коллективные зверовые охоты, либо участвует в трофейных. Такой нож не должен нести явные черты профессионального рабочего ножа, а быть в меру красивым и достаточно удобным, чтобы с ним можно было поучаствовать в снятии шкуры или разделке туши.

2. Нож охотника-индивидуала, как профессионала, так и любителя, т. е. для тех, кто, добыв зверя, занимается с ним от начала и до конца, в том числе для егерей, обслуживающих коллективные и трофейные охоты. Тем более что именно на них ложится практически вся основная нагрузка по обработке зверя. Такой нож, должен быть предельно функционален, и обеспечивать все необходимые действия.

3. Нож как оружие охоты и защиты. Я бы назвал его ножом одного удара.

4. К последней категории я отношу те ножи, которые по своей форме, размерам и весу малопригодны для конкретного использования на охоте и служат скорее дополнением к костюму владельца.

Естественно, может возникнуть вопрос: какой же нож считать охотничьим? Для меня ответ очевиден - каждый из вышеперечисленных, потому что каждый из них в той или иной степени связан с охотой.

Как я понимаю, основные страсти разгораются вокруг ножей первой группы (по моей классификации) и это, наверное, справедливо: ведь охотников-любителей, для которых рабочие качества ножа не стоят на первом месте, безусловно, больше, чем охотников-профессионалов, использующих нож как рабочий инструмент. Как, видимо, догадались читатели, я больше связан со второй группой, хотя определенный интерес у меня есть и к первой.

В данной статье хотелось бы остановиться на тех признаках, которые влияют на рабочие качества ножа в принципе и которыми должны, прежде всего, обладать ножи второй группы. Но, на мой взгляд, эти же признаки, пусть не в столь явной форме, должны присутствовать и в ножах первой группы, чтобы ототник не чувствовал себя владельцем красивого, но никчемного ножа, хотя бы потому, что для этого есть ножи четвертой группы.


1. Нож одного удара


2. Относится к охотничьим ножам первой группы. Вполне удовлетворителен по рабочим качествам, но не как профессиональный инструмент

3. Классический финский нож. Может использоваться как охотничий, но не для интенсивной работы, так как узкое лезвие быстро съедается при точке и правке

4. По своим размерам и форме хорошо подходит к ножам первой группы

Сначала перечислим те основные операции, которые должен выполнять нож в руках охотника. На первое место, наверное, нужно поставить снятие шкуры с необходимой обработкой головы и лап животного, на второе - первичную обработку (мездрение), на третье - разделку туши и на четвертое - вспомогательные работы во время охоты и в охотничьем быту.

Особый интерес у читателей наверняка вызывает применение ножа при снятии шкуры с крупных животных: лося, оленя, медведя, кабана. Это наиболее частые объекты охоты большинства охотников-любителей, и именно в этом процессе, прежде всего, определяется большая или меньшая пригодность ножа для данной работы, а значит и то, введут ли его в ранг хорошего (или наоборот) охотничьего ножа. Мездрение шкуры и разделка туши - операции весьма специфичные; хотя эту работу можно выполнять с большим или меньшим успехом ножами разных типов, лучше все же пользоваться специальными. Для вспомогательных работ и в быту охотничий нож следует применять только в случае крайней необходимости.

Рассматривая процесс снятия шкуры, не будем соотносить его с конкретным типом ножа, а постараемся определить те особенности этого инструмента, которые позволят выполнить все необходимые действия наилучшим образом.

Хочу подчеркнуть, что разговор пойдет не об "обдирании" зверя, а о качественном снятии шкуры с минимальным количеством дефектов - сквозняков и порезов,а также без оставления на шкуре больших прирезей мяса и жира. Что такое порез, понятно всем, это сквозная дыра в шкуре, а сквозняком называется срезание некоторой части мездры вместе с волосяными луковицами, что ведет к выпадению волос на этом участке. И если при работе с копытными это не имеет большого значения, то шкура медведя требует к себе очень внимательного отношения.

Снятие любой шкуры, исключая мелких куньих, у которых шкурка снимается чулком, начинается с разрезов, у крупных животных их делают три. Один - поперек, по внутренней стороне передних ног, через локти, подмышки и грудину; второй - по задней стороне задних ног через анальное отверстие, а третий - вдоль туши, от нижней губы к анальному отверстию по грудине и через середину живота.

Техническое исполнение разрезов неодинаково. Если поперечные и продольные по шее и грудине делаются обычным способом - прокол и рез, как бы снизу, то разрез шкуры на животе не так прост, так как прокол шкуры на этом месте и попытка резать ее снизу заканчиваются, как правило, нарушением брюшины и выходом наружу части желудка или кишечника. Это связано с тем, что кишечник и желудок убитого зверя очень быстро заполняются газами и шкура на животе оказывается довольно туго натянутой, поэтому разрез зачастую делают сверху.

Все разрезы лучше всего делать ножом, который имеет острый конец с пологим закругленным переходом к основной режущей части. Проколов шкуру, в зависимости от ее толщины погружаем конец ножа на 5-10 мм под нее и начинаем делать разрез. Усилие, направленное на разрезание шкуры, тем больше, чем меньше угол между режущей частью ножа и направлением усилия. В нашем случае нельзя резать шкуру, водя ножом вверх-вниз, значит надо толкать лезвие вперед. Попробуйте разрезать лист бумаги бритвой, поставив их кромки перпендикулярно друг другу. Бумага будет мяться. Сделать это можно, если бумагу натянуть. Если же этого не делать, то действие напрашивается само собой: надо увеличить угол между режущей кромкой бритвы и направлением усилия, т.е. начать резать как бы снизу, и разрез пойдет. Ведь в этом случае сама бритва одновременно и натягивает бумагу, и режет ее. То же самое и со шкурой, так как натянуть ее практически невозможно. Конечно, работая ножом с крутым закруглением, можно постараться возможно пониже опустить руку с рукоятью ножа, но это мало помогает - мешает туша. Значит нужно изменить угол реза другим способом. Форма лезвия с пологим закруглением и решает эту проблему.

Для уменьшения усилия на конце ножа с крутым закруглением появляется желание погрузить конец глубже под шкуру, чтобы резать ее стала уже более пологая часть лезвия. Но погруженный конец сразу же начинает резать мышцы, а с ними и кровеносные сосуды, а при вскрытии брюшины, уже после снятия шкуры, это приведет к порезу желудка и кишок.

Когда разрезы сделаны, можно приступать к снятию шкуры. Легче всего у крупных зверей она отделяется в паховой и подмышечной областях, тут и нож-то не нужен. Но на шее, боках (ближе к хребту) и в задней части шкура приросла прочно, и без ножа не обойтись. Кто снимал шкуры сам, знает, а кто смотрел, наверное, заметил, что движения работающего ножом кистевые, как бы качающиеся. Кисть равномерно приподнимается и опускается. На ноже это сказывается так: он начинает резать (отделять шкуру) тем местом лезвия, где оно из горизонтального переходит в закругление. Далее кисть, опускаясь, ведет рез закругленной частью и заканчивает кончиком.


5. Канадский нож. Пригоден для выполнения самых различных работ: снятия шкур с крупных и мелких животных, разделки туш, мездрения и пр. Один недостаток: обычная заточка. Наиболее удобный и функциональный из всех, которыми мне приходилось работать

6. Самодельный чукотский нож. Используется при снятии хоровины (шкуры с салом) с тюленей и моржей

7. По своим размерам малопригоден для снятия шкур и других работ по обработке зверей. Длинное лезвие позволяет использовать его при вспомогательных работах и, в частности, для установки капканов "в подрез"

8. Первый отечественный охотничий нож, появившийся в продаже в шестидесятые годы. По своей форме и размерам малопригоден на охоте

Длина отделяемого участка напрямую зависит от крутизны закругления лезвия: чем оно круче, тем меньший участок подрезается, и наоборот.

Оптимально пологое закругление режущей части позволяет качественно одним движением отделить около 20 см шкуры. Причем, чем длиннее клинок, тем большее усилие нужно прилагать и тем труднее его контролировать, что особенно важно при снятии шкуры медведя, так как, несмотря на размеры, она у него тонкая, и с крупных ценных пушных зверей. Иногда кажется, что если работать ножом более широким взмахом руки, то длину отделяемого участка шкуры можно заметно увеличить. И это действительно так, но в таком случае велика вероятность пореза, потому что теряется контроль за движением ножа, да и соединение шкуры с мясом хорошо просматривается только там, где шкуру оттягивает вторая рука. На некоторых участках, в частности на крестце, шкура соединена с мясом очень прочно. Иногда создается впечатление, что волос пророс прямо в мясо, и в этом месте нужна особенно аккуратная работа ножом, так как очень легко порезать шкуру. Избежать этого помогает нож с относительно узким острым кончиком, потому что именно такой дает возможность контролировать рез, позволяя глазу видеть одновременно и шкуру, и мясо по обе стороны ножа и вовремя поправиться. Широкое же лезвие закрывает место соединения шкуры с мясом, что на сложных участках часто ведет к порезам.

Теперь остановимся на некоторых особенностях снятия тех шкур, которые идут на изготовление чучел, ковров или для пошива оригинальных меховых изделий. По толщине мездры шкуры даже крупных хищных зверей, таких, как медведь, волк, рысь, не идут ни в какое сравнение со шкурами копытных, поэтому при работе с ними надо проявлять особую осторожность. И здесь желателен небольшой нож со слегка закругленным лезвием и острым тонким концом, который (острый конец) совершенно необходим при обработке лап и головы. У правильно снятой шкуры на лапах должны оставаться только когти и ни одного пальцевого сустава. Сделать это нормально у всех зверей, от соболя до медведя, можно только узким и острым концом ножа. То же можно сказать и об обработке ушей.

Надо заметить, что острый конец ножа, необходимый практически для всех действий по обработке зверя, очень осложняет вскрытие брюшины. После первичного разреза просунутый внутрь полости острый конец в любой момент может проткнуть или желудок, или кишки и очень затруднить дальнейшую работу. На Западе для этой процедуры делают специальные ножи с шариком на конце. Если же приходится работать одним ножом, то нужно использовать следующий прием. В разрез брюшины просовывают кисть руки ладонью вверх и, утапливая желудок или кишки тыльной стороной руки вниз, отжимают их от брюшины, освобождая место для движения ножа.

Кроме формы лезвия, огромное значение для нормальной работы ножом имеет форма его рабочей режущей части. Ее обычно называют заточкой. Наиболее часто встречаются три типа заточек ножей. Обычная, когда две боковых стороны лезвия постепенно сходятся под одним углом, образуя режущую кромку; односторонняя - одна сторона подходит к другой под определенным углом; "бритвенная" - это когда обе стороны клинка после обушка довольно резко сходятся, делая его тонким на большей части его ширины.

Я предпочитаю бритвенную форму лезвия. Для ножа, который много бывает в работе, неизбежны правка и заточка, а лезвие такой формы может долго сохраняться в хорошем состоянии, так как от режущей кромки по направлению к обушку оно на достаточном расстоянии имеет одну толщину. У двух других форм во время заточки и правки невольно меняется угол режущей кромки, потому что толщина лезвия увеличивается по направлению к обушку прогрессивно и не позволяет сохранять этот угол постоянным. И для нормальной заточки такого ножа уже после непродолжительной работы требуются специальные приемы и инструменты. Такие ножи даже при средней рабочей нагрузке и хорошей стали быстро приходят в такое состояние, при котором обычная правка не дает желаемых результатов. Может быть, это не очень важно, если нож бывает в работе один-два раза в году, но при более частом использовании по назначению это имеет существенное значение.

На мой взгляд, нож охотника-любителя (первая группа) должен быть следующим: длина клинка 110 - 130 мм, ширина в самой широкой части 25 - 28 мм, толщина обушка около 4 мм, заточка близкая к бритвенной, рукоятка из дерева или бересты. Форма клинка: прямой обушок, плавное закругление режущей кромки от кончика до середины лезвия. Ножны деревянные, кожаные или берестяные, с глубокой посадкой и мягкой подвеской.

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В случае проявления побочных симптомов нужно в срочном порядке нужно связаться с доктором. В целом, вся терапия проходит под внимательным присмотром врача.

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